Entering the Smokies

Day 18 – NOC to Locust Cove Gap Campground: mile 136.7 to mile 147.4

The climb out of the NOC was brutal. For the first 5 miles we gained 500 feet per mile. The amount of descent during the first half of the day was almost zero. Approximately 2 miles out of the NOC is a plaque along side the trail commemorating a fire fighter that lost his life nearby. 

Near the highest point of the day was a bald with fantastic views. Many sections of the day’s hike was through thick rhododendrons. It was often darker and cooler in these sections. We came across more obstacles blocking the path and once we needed to remove our packs to get under a fallen tree. 

It was weird that our legs felt so tired in the morning just climbing the stairs to the shared kitchen at the NOC for breakfast but once we got hiking up that 2000+ feet of elevation gain they did fine. The body is a marvelous thing. 

Day 19 – Locust Cove Gap Campground to Cable Gap Shelter: mile 147.4 to mile 159.2

As we chatted with our fellow hikers the night before, Amy joked that we should all pray for trail magic at Stecoah Gap, a major road crossing a few miles down the road. We did indeed get trail magic!  A man by the trail name of Noon died on the trail in 2020. His best friend, along with his daughter and her husband, vow to do trail magic each year around the anniversary of his death. His best friend was to pick him up at this gap that fateful day but he never showed up.  The best they can guess is hyperthermia got him.

The hike out of the gap was difficult as always and then it got much worse.  We went up over 600 feet in under 0.4 miles. Remember, coming out of the NOC we were climbing 500 feet every mile.  This was brutal!  We later found out from a nice 73 year old female solo hiker called Pacifier that the difficult section was called Jacob’s Ladder. We were glad we didn’t know about it ahead of time!

Day 20 – Cable Gap Shelter to Fontana Marina: mile 159.2 to 164.3

After hiking just over 5 miles to Fontana Dam, we were met by Sue (Blister). After a brief visit to the Marina store, Sue drove us to her place a few miles down the road. She used to rent her place as a vacation home so it was well equipped for house guests. To say that Sue pampered us while we were there would be an understatement. 

She fed us lunch, took us into town to resupply, and fed us dinner jin the evening. While shopping for our resupply, Sue kept saying, “Oh, I got some of this or that and you guys can have it.”  What a wonderful woman that just randomly picked us out of the hiker crowd at the NOC a few days ago and asked if she could help us out in any way. She wanted to help hikers but wanted to concentrate on hikers closer to her age. We truly believe she enjoyed pampering us as much as we enjoyed being pampered. Thanks, Sue!

Day 21 – Fontana Marina to Mollies Ridge Shelter: mile 164.3 to mile 177.7

After a wonderful breakfast, Sue took us back to where she picked us up so we could resume our hike.  After about 2 miles, we passed the Fontana Hilton, the fanciest shelter on the trail. If it hadn’t been for Sue, we probably would have stayed here. 

After a walk across Fontana Dam, we soon entered the Great Smoky Mountain National Park. There is a permit required for thru hikers and you need to put half of it into a box as the trail enters the woods. I think they need to come and take the ones that are in there!  Ours barely fit. 

The hike in was a lot of uphill but we were prepared for it and we didn’t think it was as bad as we feared.  We found out that there was an endurance race/hike that started the previous morning at the north end of the Smokies and was ending this morning. 70 miles of hiking in 24+ hours.  Some people are crazier than we are. 

Day 22 – Mollies Ridge Shelter to Derrick Knob Shelter: mile 177.7 to mile 189.8

Started out in the rain and high winds. Our shelter did not have a privy so we were anxious to get to the first shelter that did. It was 6 miles to that shelter with a privy. We made that our lunch stop so we could utilize the facilities. By this time, the rain had stopped but the winds were pretty fierce. 

As we were approaching the summit of Rocky Top, a gust of wind came up and blew Amy over.  Luckily she landed in some tall soft grass. The picture with her walking the trail through the grass was shortly after the incident. I’ve fallen twice so far on the hike. Nothing serious, just a slow losing of balance and ending up on my butt. Amy hasn’t fallen yet and claims this doesn’t count because she was pushed, albeit by Mother Nature. 

The mountain’s name and inspiration for a song is appropriate. It was indeed rocky at the summit of the mountain. As we descended, we both had the lyrics of the song associated with this mountain running in our heads. 

The afternoon hiking was far more strenuous than the morning and by the time we got to the shelter, we were exhausted.  Unfortunately, we still had to get water, prepare dinner, make our beds up and generally put away for the night.  

Day 23 – Derrick Knob Shelter to Mount Collins Shelter: mile 189.8 to mile 202.8

Today was a nice cool sunny day to hike. A couple major milestones for today. We hiked past Clingmans Dome and took the short side trail to hike to the observation tower. We had been here in the fall a little over a year ago when it was much more colorful but we had to do it as part of our adventure. 

The other key milestone is that Clingmans Dome is right around mile 200!  That’s right, we have now hiked more than 200 miles and have less than 2,000 to go.  So it took us 14 days to go the first 100 miles (does include 3 zeros) and only 9 to go the second 100. The second hundred is also harder than the first. We are improving. 

When we got to the shelter for the night, it was full so we had to setup the tent. Most of the ground was still very damp so we found the best spot we could to setup. Got our chores done, ate dinner, and went to bed. It was getting quite chilly. 

Day 24 – Mount Collins Shelter to Newfound Gap: mile 202.8 to mile 207.7

We were very cold overnight. Amy did not sleep well at all and I slept sporadically. We weren’t sure how cold it actually got, but my water bottle that I left outside the tent had ice in it.  We were a bit later than normal getting up and going but still made it to Newfound Gap by 11:30 am for our ride into Gatlinburg. 

We had spent several nights in the trail with a man, RockHoppa, and his daughter along with her boyfriend. They are from New Hampshire and we eventually exchanged contact info. His wife, Nancy (Momma Bear) is staying in an RV and moving occasionally to stay near them. We made arrangements for Momma Bear to pick us up in Newfound Gap and take us into Gatlinburg. 

We originally expected to stay in a motel while in town but, being a Friday night, the rates were ridiculous (Motel 6 went from $69 to $200). There was one advertised hostel in town so we made arrangements to stay at the Lodge of Legends. What a fabulous place. 

We dropped of our packs and got a quick tour by Renee and then Momma Bear took us back into town. We had a great lunch at the Smoky Mountain Brewery along withy a flight of beer to share. After lunch we hit the local outfitter and then went to Starbucks for a large coffee and wait for our ride back to the comfy hostel. We should sleep a lot better tonight before hitting the trail in the morning and finishing off the Smokies over the next three days. It will be cold again. 

day	miles	total asc	total desc	steps
18	10.7	4074	2224	32657
19	11.8	2814	3625	34770
20	5.1	1125	2322	18720
21	13.4	4645	1820	34860
22	12.1	3966	3661	36247
23	13.0	4199	3215	42387
24	4.9	721	1564	19228